Well after six days we are obviously experts on BA so we feel that we can reveal the top three smells... You can blame the Leeds Writers' Circle for this one, once, in the travel writing competition the judge told everyone off for not mentioning smells.

Number 3 is the smell of dog faeces. Not nice but there you go. Expecially walking on the paths next to the jardin botanico (dogs aren't allowed in there, there are hundreds of feral cats and I guess the city fathers thought that a thousand body tom and jerry scene wouldn't go down too well. The dog owners seem to have taken revenge by encouraging their dogs to hold it in until they are walking them on the path on the edge, there are hundreds of the little 'packages' and many, what can only be termed skid marks on the path).

Number 2 is the smell of diesel soot. Everywhere...

Number 1 is the smell you get in the UK on a sunny August weekend. That's right, barbeques, only no one here is barbequeing, the smell is thanks to the Parrillas carbones. Almost every block has one of these and they produce the best beef you could wish for. More on the beef later... for now let's say: I have had beef here so far that is at least as good as anything I've had in Europe, and so far we haven't been trying.
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